Initial D's Gunma Prefecture Really Is A Driver's Wonderland

"Kat Callahan" (kyosuke) 03/11/2014 at 12:38 • Filed to: None

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Gunma Prefecture is a landlocked region in the Tokyo Regional Area, about 90 minutes northwest of the city of Tokyo by express train. It is well known for its beautiful mountains, ancient Jomon cultural assets, skiing, and hot springs... Well, that, and for being the setting of Japanese drifting culture comic and animation Initial D . Having driven Gunma myself, I can attest: Yes, it is that damn fun.

Gunma is divided into five subregions, Tobu, Chubu, Seibu, Agatsuma, and Tone/Numata (usually just referred to as Tone, toe-nay, by the resident expatriates). Major mountains include Mount Miyogi, Mount Haruna, Mount Akagi, Mount Nikko-Shirane, and Mount Asama. The mascot of the prefecture is Gunma-chan, who is a horse (not a squirrel, for which Gunma-chan is often mistaken). Gunma is so named because it is an area that used to be famous for horse breeding. There are many facts about Gunma-chan which are humorous, such as the fact Gunma-chan lives in Tokyo, not in Gunma, never ages past 7 years, and is of indeterminate gender. They say Gunma looks like a crane... I guess I can see it.

But... Back to the mountains. Haruna is the most famous (at least outside of Japan), as it is the mountain which is the Initial D main character Fujiwara Takumi's home mountain. It is renamed Akina in the story and can be found on the northern border between Seibu and Chubu. The team from Akina is the Akina Speed Stars, which Takumi eventually joins with his Toyota Corolla AE86 (or hachi-roku as we'd call it in Japan). I've seen a number of AE86s on the roads of Gunma, and it makes me smile each time. I actually saw one fitted out like Takumi's a few weeks back in front of a used anime goods store.

The second of the major mountains is Mount Akagi. In Initial D it is the home of the Akagi Red Suns (the drifting group most notable for their RX-7s). Akagi is located almost dead center of the Chubu region. It's actually a volcano, although it is not considered active or likely to ever be active (reports of activity in 1938 are disputed). It also borders a beautiful lake called Lake Ono, and is famous for being the namesake of the Imperial Japanese Naval Ship Akagi which participated in the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7th, 1941. The road that passes by Mount Akagi, Gunma Route 62, is featured very prominently in many Initial D episodes.

Mount Miyogi, home of the Night Kids and the scene of three races in Initial D, is the only mountain I have driven entirely from bottom to top and top to bottom. The drive was done in October of last year, after a rather wet and stormy night. I was in a Mitsubishi EK Wagon with a full passenger load so I did not drive too quickly. I did hug the turns, but the car (being a kei ) was simply too light to power slide. Did I mention the FWD? Yeah. No. Nothing doing. My passengers thought I was going extremely fast, however. Enough to throw up their hands and pretend they were on some sort of amusement park ride.

Honestly, Miyogi is really beautiful. After driving up it, my passengers and I met up with a bunch of other expatriates (mostly members of the !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! ) for a hike. The fall colors playing across the mountain peaks and spreading over the landscape, only broken by the dark asphalt and yellow lines of the hairpin turns with beauty only those of us with gears on the brain will fully understand.

Yet it was also extremely dangerous. People die each year hiking the mountains of Gunma. Miyogi is no exception. Indeed, my group almost witnessed such a disaster when an older gentlemen slipped and fell—managing to grab onto a tree branch at the last minute while we worked to pull him to safety. He was scratched up and bleeding. He lost his glasses, but he didn't lose his life. Driving too quickly on these mountain passes isn't the only way to die, and if you disrespect Gunma, this mountainous prefecture may see to it that you pay for your arrogance.

I really like living in Gunma and I'm really hoping not leaving any time soon... I just wish I still had my BMW 3-series sedan. How I would have loved to take it from the Austin Hill Country to the mountains of Gunma Prefecture. Maybe sometime soon I'll fork out for another one? A girl can dream.

Top image via Rebecca Mesch. Other images by Rebecca Mesch and Kat Callahan. Gunma-chan and map composite by Kat Callahan.

Kat Callahan is a writer for Jezebel and currently the LGBT editor at Jezebel's LGBT+ subpage !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! . She can be reached @JezebelKat on Twitter. She really likes BMWs and misses her former 2000 3-series sedan, which she sold before moving to the Land of the Rising Sun.

GoPDemon > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 12:50

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Someone said they added speed bumps because of racing. True or false?

Kat Callahan > GoPDemon 03/11/2014 at 12:52

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On Miyogi? False. There were no speed bumps that I remember. Certainly none I noticed! On Haruna and Akagi? I think I remember various speed bumps, but they're pretty small, and I didn't go all the way to the tops, or even far up to be honest.

Also, Gunma is home to one of the melody roads, which are sort of like speed bumps, as the grooves play a song if you go over them at a certain speed. Encouragement to keep you from going too fast. And it's a nice tune!

GoPDemon > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 12:55

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If you just go there at night can you find people drifting? Do people care if a random foreigner is just watching?

Kat Callahan > GoPDemon 03/11/2014 at 12:56

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I have no idea. I have never been there at night. And I don't particularly consider myself a "random foreigner." I've been here for six years and have zero plans to leave. Ever!

But I assume you'd get looks, but I have no idea what kind of response you'd get. Very unlikely that you'd have an issues with violence, if that's what you're concerned about.

GoPDemon > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:01

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Oh ok. It was more for me being foreign. I'm just wondering if it's all secret and what not...

Reading this helps me complete the Japanese car scene in my head... The other half of the scene is written well by tokyobayaqualine with his Wangan experience. Although I am a bit skeptical of him.

icantremembermylastname > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:11

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Hey! I didn't know you posted here :3

RacecaR > GoPDemon 03/11/2014 at 13:13

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If you are wanting to complete the Japanese car scene in your head, have you read this article?

(not trying to detract from this article on the Gunma prefecture, which is a nice article.)

Kat Callahan > icantremembermylastname 03/11/2014 at 13:15

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I do now!

GoPDemon > RacecaR 03/11/2014 at 13:23

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Actually, in the article he mentions JDM insider. That's how I already knew a bit about kanjo racing. I didn't realize it was a circle though.

RacecaR > GoPDemon 03/11/2014 at 13:24

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I had heard about it, but this is a pretty close look inside. I thought it was a pretty good article.

Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:27

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Good read!

GoPDemon > RacecaR 03/11/2014 at 13:31

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Actually, originally I thought it was the same thing as Wangan. Reading this clarifies it.

You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:31

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I want to visit so bad. Pity I don't speak the language. I hear it's pretty imperative to speak Japanese when visiting.

Kat Callahan > You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" 03/11/2014 at 13:33

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Imperative? Hahahahahaha. No. Plenty of people, especially English teachers show up with little to no Japanese ability. In Tokyo you barely need it. In Gunma... You'd be surprised, but I'd still suggest you make more than a token effort to learn.

extraspecialbitter > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:34

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How does this get mistaken for a squirrel?

stoke > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:34

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Subaru's headquarters and main plant are in Gunma.

Coincidence?

Kat Callahan > extraspecialbitter 03/11/2014 at 13:34

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I don't know, but it happens all the time, I tells yah. I am seriously not kidding.

Kat Callahan > stoke 03/11/2014 at 13:35

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I doubt it.

...so what you're telling me is that I need to see about a plant tour, right? Right.

You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:36

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I have a couple half-Japanese friends here in WNC (which is a rarity), I need to get up with them and learn a few phrases before I fly over.

ninjagin > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:41

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Great read. Nikko was one of my favorite places to visit in Japan. Totally worth it. The temples are amazing.

Shytiger > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:51

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Fantastic Kat! My friend is a big fan of Initial D, will pass along XD.

dismal > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:55

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Can we get some pictures of roads?

extraspecialbitter > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 13:56

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But that doesn't make any sense... it has no squirrel-like characteristics. Do they look different over there or something?

I don't know why I'm stuck on this.

Great pics, btw.

CKeffer > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 14:03

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Great article! One of these days my fiance and I will make it over to Japan, need to save up for it though.

Makoyouidiot > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 14:13

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Awesome to put a place to the show. Nice piece

AspenRS > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 14:15

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Cool little article, thanks for that. I used to watch Initial D all the time growing up and always wondered if the mountains mentioned were real. Apparently so!

WilRams > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 14:20

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This headline was sooo hard for me to read. All my own fault. I just had to slow down a bit.

cruzin150 > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 14:28

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Thank you for this.

Being a huge Initial D fan, it's cool to read about the locations used in the anime and manga. :)

porchswinghero > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 14:41

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Or a cat. Or a dog. The head is too wide IMHO.

kschang > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 14:51

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IIRC, if you write Gunma in Kanji, you'll see that the second character is indeed "horse".

Kylemaro > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 15:12

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do you think the gutters are useable in downhill battles?

cesariojpn > GoPDemon 03/11/2014 at 15:19

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At the "Five Hairpins" and a few other areas.

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 15:22

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10/10, would blast my eurobeat playlist while storming around the area in my new, blue, Fiesta ST. I would also have downhill battles with my friend in his new red FR-S (GT-86 if we're in japan).

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > stoke 03/11/2014 at 15:24

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Bunta approves of the location. Also approves of their products. Perfect for beating up on his punk son in a washed out toyota.

bmw325_num99 > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 15:34

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Rebecca, I am curious. Do you have a car now? What stops you from buying a BMW or any other car? I ask only out of curiosity of Japan motoring laws and expenses. Is insurance/gas/registration too expensive there?

Thanks for writing this. Ever since I quit looking at Speedhunters I am in Japan car-culture withdrawl!

bmw325_num99 > bmw325_num99 03/11/2014 at 15:36

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Oops, I should have addressed that to Kat not Rebecca. My apologies.

GrauGeist > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 16:00

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Wait, you went to Gunma for Initial D and didn't stop by Subaru ? What?

stoke > themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles 03/11/2014 at 16:03

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I own one of those. Mine's black, but the five-spoke goldies are spot on.

stoke > Kylemaro 03/11/2014 at 16:05

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DITCH HOOK!

feather-throttle-not-hair > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 16:37

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This is rad. I've always been curious about the actual places behind Initial D. I'm sure i'm not alone in saying that i'd love to see more photos if you have them.

feather-throttle-not-hair > extraspecialbitter 03/11/2014 at 16:39

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It's cute, therefore it might be a squirrel.

Stef Schrader > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 17:00

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ADORABLE!

Kat Callahan > bmw325_num99 03/11/2014 at 17:45

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I'm Kat, the author. The photographer is Rebecca.

I do not own my own car at the moment, no.

Kat Callahan > kschang 03/11/2014 at 17:46

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Yes. .

Kat Callahan > dismal 03/11/2014 at 17:46

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I'll see what I can do for a follow up.

dismal > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 18:18

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That would be amazing. I'm just hoping it looks like the GRID 2 track, heh.

CptStumpy > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 18:58

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Nice article. I can't wait for summer when I can ride out there in nice weather.

CptStumpy > GoPDemon 03/11/2014 at 19:00

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I have a friend who goes out every friday with a group of people to drift in the mountains of Gunma. It's quite something.

Kat Callahan > GrauGeist 03/11/2014 at 19:17

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Maybe next article!

Timbo > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 19:24

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Can't believe I lived in Tokyo for just over a year, and the closest I got to any of the car culture was cars whizzing by my hotel window on Roppongi-dori... Such a waste :(

I blame Geronimos!

Kuroneko > dismal 03/11/2014 at 19:31

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Look at the roads? Sure:

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2013/02/01/gra…

Of which it should be noted the real roads and the manga roads do not match. Neko.

twinturbobmw > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 19:42

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Sounds like a lot of fun! I remember wondering if the real Gunma was like the roads in Initial D. Too bad you didn't have your E46.

Shaken > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 19:43

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I founded my love for Japan when I was staying in Annaka-shi, Gunma at age 15. My host family's brother took me up Mt. Haruna and Akagi and I was hooked. I came back at 21 and stayed ever since - working for a car company.
For Onsen and Initial D lovers I recommend going to Ikaho-Onsen or pass through Gunma on your way to Kusatsu (from Tokyo).

Kat Callahan > twinturbobmw 03/11/2014 at 19:48

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Too bad indeed!

Mockngbrd > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 21:51

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One for the bucket list

koopiskeva > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 22:47

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Hahaha... I read this whole thing without having looked at who wrote it. I got to this part ... "I just wish I still had my BMW 3-series sedan" and I chuckled thinking this was you. Read a little further, saw that it was indeed you that wrote this and just burst out laughing. Good job. o:

Kat Callahan > koopiskeva 03/11/2014 at 22:48

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LOL HAIJAY. I get paid for this these days.

koopiskeva > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 22:53

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Very nice O:

Maybe someday you can get a similar car and drive those roads. Don't skimp on the eurobeat. JCD would be disappointed.

Kat Callahan > koopiskeva 03/11/2014 at 22:54

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It would not be wise to upset JCD (or the Germans in general). I know better.

BTW, this is why I de facto retired from editing. This was a full time hobby, now it is a full time job. I won about three awards and said, "Good enough."

pwolfamv > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 23:00

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It happens.

Kat Callahan > pwolfamv 03/11/2014 at 23:03

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Holy shit, it's a waffle. WHAT IS HAPPENING HERE.

THIS IS WHAT IT'S LIKE WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE. Did this get linked on that place where we do that thing we do?

Kylemaro > stoke 03/11/2014 at 23:11

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thats how its done, to hell with tires you only need them for that run realistically

pwolfamv > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 23:21

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I drive a BRZ, it's was inevitable I come here >.>

Kat Callahan > pwolfamv 03/11/2014 at 23:24

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I suppose so, yes. Jalopnik is a strange beast of my past and my present. Patrick George is an old schoolmate of mine, we worked at our college newspaper together.

zipfuel > Kat Callahan 03/11/2014 at 23:29

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Keep getting this quality of writing and pictures posted to the Jalopnik front page (along with copious hint dropping) and I'm sure some nice BMW PR person will at least loan you something for a weekend.....

Gunma really does look as stunning and otherworldly as Inital-D would have me believe

OsakaRory > GoPDemon 03/12/2014 at 00:09

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Sometimes, yes. When I went there were a few cars drifting up the main road. There is an even crazy backside road that I wouldn't be surprised to see some crazy drivers try to do without crashing. As for people caring....no. Surprised, yes. But, they realize you like cars too and want to pick your brain about who you are and how you got there. At least, that is how they acted when I went to Akagi and other drift spots.

Kat Callahan > zipfuel 03/12/2014 at 00:19

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It'd be nice... I would totally test drive a right hand drive BMW for BMW Japan. HINT HINT HINT.

kschang > You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" 03/12/2014 at 00:50

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If you look like a gaijin, you can get by with English just fine. ;)

mrkohi > GoPDemon 03/12/2014 at 00:53

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There are small steel bumps that separate the two lanes. These prevent cars from drifting.

Bring Back Duckman! > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 06:45

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Could all those Imprezas WRX STis I see driven around the street in New York be owned by Lesbians according to that stereotype ? It is a pretty sweet car nonetheless.

BionicByronic > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 06:49

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More importantly, where can I flaunt my multi-track drifting?

SupesLaundryman > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 06:50

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Damn, at first I thought you were posting about Kisaragi Gunma....

Kat Callahan > Bring Back Duckman! 03/12/2014 at 06:55

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Well, I'm not opposed to being a WRX STi driving lesbian, but I prefer the BMWs.

Kat Callahan > Kylemaro 03/12/2014 at 07:02

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Good question. I sure as hell know I am not getting anywhere near them. I don't have that kind of skill.

PeterInJapan > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 08:45

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Nice post. I'm an American who's been living in Japan for, hoo boy, 22 years. The mountains are the best thing about Gunma. Nice for blowing off the world and going off for a 2 hour drive on a Saturday.

PeterInJapan > GoPDemon 03/12/2014 at 08:48

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I went up to Mt Akagi a couple of months back to try to see some meteors, and there are a bunch of wannaby hashiriyas up there, it's quite cute, everyone stressing about their cars and hanging in groups. Lots of itashas too. I definitely stood out but you learn to surf that in Japan.

PeterInJapan > feather-throttle-not-hair 03/12/2014 at 08:49

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If you know what J-List is, follow my blog posts. I write about Gunma a lot. It's been voted the "least interesting" part of Japan for several years running. ^_^

Patrick George > themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles 03/12/2014 at 09:08

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Oh yeah. You gotta have the Eurobeat when you're doing Initial D stuff.

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > Kylemaro 03/12/2014 at 09:18

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I know on flat ground, if it was open, I would use a gentle "ditch" slope off a track to give my old monte carlo some extra turning due to how bad it would understeer normally. It did backfire occasionally if I popped up too soon or if I missed on my entrance attempt. But when it worked, my "dirt lines" were amazing. Realistically, they're best for more normal cars that don't have many upgrades rather than the highly tuned cars of initial D.

Sokkaking > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 09:38

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Shameless brag - me pulled over at the staging area atop Mt. Haruna (Akina in Initial D) pretending to tune my old Mitsubishi Legnum... A ridiculously fun drive :P

Kat Callahan > Sokkaking 03/12/2014 at 09:40

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NICE!

ooholycow > extraspecialbitter 03/12/2014 at 09:44

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It looks like a cat/horse hybrid which I call a corse of course.

You had fordboy357 at "meat tornado" > kschang 03/12/2014 at 10:27

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Yeah, I'd stand out like a sore thumb in Japan. 6'2", full beard, and white as the driven snow.

L00fah > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 11:19

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All that talk about roads and driving and not a single picture of a street?

Kazecloud > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 11:57

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come into an Initial D post

no one has talked about the music

lets change that

Grant Lee > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 12:09

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My favorite road is Irohazaka, both in the manga/anime and in the games, with its famous jump hairpin corners!

JazzyEP > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 12:16

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It's been my dream since I was 9 to drive down a mountain like initial D. Knew Japan had famous racing mountains but never knew initial d was based on a real one :) !!!!

eightamps > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 13:10

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Oh wow, this took me back. I lived in Midori-shi until 2010. I haven't been back since 2012. Really beautiful place, but I am way too much of a city person to enjoy the rural life. How has the Gunma wind been this winter?

Dr_Watson > Patrick George 03/12/2014 at 15:24

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Sure that's not more of a techno J-Pop activity?

Kat Callahan > L00fah 03/12/2014 at 17:25

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Well, these pictures were taken during the hike, not the drive. I'll do a follow up post of photos on the road.

Reborn Pyrrhic > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 19:32

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I drove up Mount Miyogi a few years back, on a rental Mazda 2. I was by myself and would wring out all the revs I could from its tiny engine. Being a resolute front wheel driver (I love small hatches), I had a blast, enjoying every screech of the front tires, and the few times I would get the rear end loose on the Mazda car. Driving up that mountain was the time when I realized I had finally come to grips with shifting with the left hand: driving in Japan was no longer weird to me, and became second nature.

Kat Callahan > Reborn Pyrrhic 03/12/2014 at 19:35

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I don't have any trouble switching between the two countries. I thought it'd mess me up more but only the wipers/turn signal does. The left/right shift dynamic doesn't even phase me and never has.

Also I have a perfect driving record in Japan and get my shiny gold license in November!

Reborn Pyrrhic > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 19:51

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Yes, the wiper and turn signals are the worse, the shifting is not as bad at all. I was always in Japan as a tourist, so no Japanese license. The first day I ever drove in Japan I went the wrong way on a roundabout: turned right instead of left! I was in Yokota air base, and luckily there was a fellow American to point at me that I was going the wrong way! I think that's a common occurrence there when newbies arrive in Japan and start driving. Driving in Japan has always been a bit odd for me, especially since I usually came from Korea (where I lived). The two countries are remarkably similar in many aspects, but in driving they might as well be worlds apart!

Kat Callahan > Reborn Pyrrhic 03/12/2014 at 19:54

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I lived in Seoul (and I've driven all around Yokosuka and Sasebo, former Navy myself), and I never ever drove in Korea. NO THANK YOU. I regularly saw taxies hop curves and drive down manicured passenger walkways. NOPE NOPE NOPE.

Reborn Pyrrhic > Kat Callahan 03/12/2014 at 20:01

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That's what makes driving in Korea so much fun. Ignore the rules and substitute your own. Driving in Korea is slowly getting better (unless you are inside Seoul, which is just a humongous traffic jam), but there is still a long way to go. Driving there will never be as in Japan, however. Koreans lack the ingrained cultural politeness of Japanese, and they have that bballi-bballi mentality, but the country is full of wonderful roads and destinations too.

Kuroneko > L00fah 03/13/2014 at 03:13

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This comment system sucks, but here's an overview again of just that:

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2013/02/01/gra…

Neko.

L00fah > Kuroneko 03/13/2014 at 13:55

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Yes it does. And thanks! :D

From some of the shots there, that road would be a blast to drive.

Kylemaro > Kat Callahan 03/25/2014 at 18:50

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sorry so long for a reply, been a rough number of weeks for me. but felt i had to say this for your driving confidence

Skill is 90% courage. think of it like this. ever ask an admiral how deep his subs can really go? he doesn't know until he has to

Kat Callahan > Kylemaro 03/26/2014 at 00:20

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Lawl. I used to be navy, but I was surface, not subs.

mackross > Kat Callahan 04/29/2014 at 18:11

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I got to live in gunma for 2 years. Had to save up to buy a very old and run down lancer evolution 2RS but it was worth every penny. Great article Kat!